Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Staircase to Heaven

February 3, 2012. Day 7: Clyde to Te Anau, New Zealand.

Without a doubt, the high of today's ride is Devil's Staircase...

Devil's Staircase, New Zealand.


But competing with Devil's Staircase for top spot is Fiordland on Film, Ata Whenua. You can view a clip of it below, but it pales in comparison to seeing it on the big screen at Fiordland Cinema in Te Anau.

Monday, March 19, 2012

We Know Pinot

February 2, 2012. Day 6: Queenstown, New Zealand.

Listening to my iPod during an early morning trail run along the banks of a tranquil, turquoise-green river in Clyde, I discover that Dwight Yoakam provides the perfect twangy tempo for dodging the mountain bikers I encounter.


Our afternoon agenda begins with wine tasting and a fabulous lunch at the Gibbston Valley Winery.

Gourmet lunch at Gibbston Valley Winery.


With our palates pleasantly satiated, our designated driver, Fitz, chauffeurs us to world-renowned adventurers' mecca, Queenstown. I partake in some retail therapy, and possibly some consumption of ice-cream, but only because their "free" WiFi Hotspot password was available with purchase only. I swear.

View from Coronet Peak ski area, Queenstown.

The Ride to Clyde

February 1, 2012. Day 5: Franz Josef to Clyde, New Zealand.

An all night thundering downpour and morning rain showers factored greatly in our decision to trailer the bikes after breakfast for the ride to Franz Josef Glacier.

Franz Josef Glacier

By the time we stopped for a mid-morning flat white (one-third espresso, two-thirds steamed milk with a touch of swirled froth), the sun managed to break through the clouds, so we pulled the bikes off the trailer. The ride to Clyde is extremely varied; craggy coastline, mountainous Southern Alps, and the dry grasslands of Central Otago.

Roadside coastline.

Haast Pass, Southern Alps.

Chopper and the Tin Man, Central Otago.

I can relate to the Tin Man; my arms feel like they are about to fall off after battling strong winds all day.

Oliver's Lodge is home for the next two nights. I hang my riding gear in my room
a cozy, converted stableand wait for Fitz to arrive with the cold beer.



Sunday, March 18, 2012

Slippery When Wet

January 31, 2012. Day 4: Karamea to Franz Josef, New Zealand.

Cold, soaking wet, west coast ride today. My energy is low and I feel as gray as the cloudy sky. I consider putting the bike on the trailer when we make a scenic stop at the Pancake Rocks.

The Pancake Rocks


Despite the rain and my equally dismal mood, I decide to get back on the bike after an à la carte lunch in the van. Fitz offers some sage advice on how to face our biggest challenge todaythe dreaded Greymouth rail/road bridge.

"Cross the rails at 90 degrees and then a sharp right to enter the bridge. When wet, resist the temptation to ride the center of the rails because you have to exit the bridge at 90 degrees left. You should have just enough clearance to stay left of the left rail and not hit the wall, but be careful. The railroad ties are covered with tar and slippery as snot when wet."
So, off I go.


It is still raining when I reach the bridge. John and Natalie are some distance behind me or in front of me, I don't know, all I know is that I am alone with no one to follow and show me how it is done. I tell myself, hang on and ride it through, you'll be okay. The tires slip on the wet tar. I relax my grip on the handlebars, keep the throttle steady, and look up toward the exit.

Railroad Bridge...duh, duh, duh, DONE!

Made it! I am so proud of myself.

Saturday, March 17, 2012

Come on You F*ckers, Be Social

January 30, 2012. Day 3: Hanmer Springs to Karamea, New Zealand.

Nobody puts Baby in a corner.

The road to Karamea is chock-full of alpine challenges: decreasing radius curves and hairpin turns. I am getting more comfortable in the corners with each twisted kilometer.

Tonight we lodge at the incredible Riverstone Karamea. John and Natalie invite Fitz and me to the sunny deck of their chalet for drinks and hors d'oeuvres. We make a toast to new friends and New Zealand, and then share our "highs" and "lows" of the day.

Here's to new friends, John and Natalie.

Today, my high is the ride from Springs Junction to Reeftondozens of sweeping S-curves and no traffic.

John and Natalie in foreground, Colleen in background.

Friday, March 16, 2012

Peaces

January 29, 2012. Day 2: Kaiteriteri to Hanmer Springs, New Zealand.

Peaces, by Dean Bush Raybould

Stopped for lunch in Murchison at The Commercial Hotel and Cafe where this wonderful colored chalk on cardboard artwork adorned the wall. The handwritten prose at the bottom reads:
Sharks in a feeding frenzy,
we tear & devour the land,
with teeth that need to be broken by benign hands,
to release us from rusty old hooks that repeatedly draw,
us into dead & shallow,
false ownership wars,
to guide us into a deep & still peace,
where all can swim in union through our live's wide seas.

Thursday, March 15, 2012

Technical Difficulties

January 28, 2012. New Zealand Motorcycle Tour, Day 1:

View from Hawkes Lookout, Takaka Hill.

John, Natalie, and I meet at 8:30 AM for breakfast and our Tour Guide, Fitz, gives us our first morning pre-ride tour briefing. Today we conquer Takaka Hill, twice. John and Natalie are riding two-up on a Honda, and I am riding a 2006 BMW 1200RT.

Colleen on Takaka Hill.

Takaka Hill is to Kiwis what The Snake is to Californians—lots of twisty hill climbs and descents. Many riders—especially sport bike riders—love this sort of technical challenge. For me, the technically challenged rider, it is like participating in the Olympics—albeit the Special Olympics.

Colleen on The Snake, February 25, 2012.

Although I managed to log 25,000 miles on various motorcycles in the last two years, precious few of those miles are twisted. This lack of experience, plus very specific fears about taking blind corners on two wheels at speeds beyond my skill level make me a slow rider, indeed. Several men have expressed to me that they have a problem with the way I ride
—that I take corners too slowly, or that I need to ride faster and keep up with them. Their commanding directives are not constructive instruction based on years of learned observation and training experience; it is oversimplified, pseudo-machismo, chest pounding nonsense, and it is dangerous.

Nothing nourishes my free spirit or engages my grab-life-by-the-heated-grips-and-live-without-regrets attitude like riding my motorcycle, even if I don't take corners fast enough to keep up with the dudes. For me, it is not about how fast I get there, it is about taking time to enjoy the ride.

My motorcycle riding motto is, No Hurries, No Worries, and it has served me well. Deal with it.

Road Safety Sign, New Zealand.

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

Kia Ora

I return the bike to Garners in Melbourne and catch an evening flight to Auckland. A load of laundry, a much-needed shower, and a few hours of sleep at hotel Formule 1, then I board a turbo-prop for my flight to Nelson on the south island.

Also on that flight and joining me on the Best of the Best south island motorcycle tour are John and Natalie Canfield from Virginia. We are met at the Nelson airport by John "Fitz" Fitzwater, owner and tour operator of GoTourNZ.com, and shuttled to our first Bed and Breakfast accommodation, Sussex House.

John "Fitz" Fitzwater

We have the afternoon on our own to grab some lunch and explore Nelson. I wander into The Nelson Hotel, unsure if I want breakfast or lunch. Fortunately, I find both in the “Nelson Burger”—a mountain of hamburger, egg, hash browns, salad, and sauce sandwiched between two generous-sized buns. I strike up a conversation about local beer with Stacyshe and her partner, Rob, are the new proprietors of The Nelson Hotel. A couple pints of Fat Toad and Speights later and then it is back to the Sussex House for a short siesta before we regroup for dinner.

Sussex House

Tomorrow we ride!

Friday, March 9, 2012

Lip Service

I am moved to compassion when I listen to the stories of women with endometriosis and polycystic ovarian syndrome who suffer both physically and financially because the prescribed treatments for these health conditions are not covered by their insurance providers. Their stories are told by one voice, the voice of Sandra Fluke.

At no point in her eleven minute testimony to the House Democratic Steering and Policy Committee does Ms. Fluke talk about sex, multiple sex partners, or “sexual recreational activities”—but Rush Limbaugh did. During his radio show broadcast, Rush launched an acerbic, personal attack on Sandra Fluke, calling her a “slut” and a “prostitute” for “having lots of sex and wanting to get paid for it.”

Rush is not alone in his appetite for, or regurgitation of, ignorant swill. Last year, transcript and audio of a Southwest Airlines pilot’s rant to a fellow pilot about the company’s flight attendants was released to media and internet outlets:

“…Eleven fucking over the top ass-fucking homosexuals and a granny…two girls, one of them was part do-able…they’re still both (inaudible), you know what I mean? I still wouldn’t want anyone to know if I had banged them…”

Unfortunately, pejoratively asinine dialog is not limited to radio transmissions so that it could easily be switched off.

As a flight attendant, I am often subject to these types of denigrating comments at work. For 12 years, I responded nonverbally by rolling my eyes or walking away if the situation allowed—which is difficult when confined to a metal tube. My good girl behavior of repressing opposing opinions was rewarded by Colleen is a pleasure to have in class-type praise from management and colleagues. Only when I realized that my silence condoned and contributed to the perpetuation of this archaic assholery, did I decide to speak up.

Fearing adverse reactions (such as elementary name-calling by a bigoted bigmouth) or retaliation, people choose to remain silent. I understand that fear. Speaking out takes courage—courage that I do not have in large reserves. However, just like with any workout, the more I exercise my voice, the stronger I feel.

Do I think that my speaking out has the power to change someone’s behavior? Yes, I do. It changed my behavior.